The evolution of the automatic watch movement is a fascinating chapter in watchmaking history, and it's a story that deserves more attention. A century ago, in 1926, a British watchmaker named John Harwood and a Swiss manufacturer, Fortis, revolutionized mechanical watchmaking with the invention of the automatic wristwatch. This innovation not only changed the industry but also transformed how we experience watchmaking today. The automatic movement, with its ability to wind itself through the wearer's natural movements, has become an integral part of modern mechanical watches, and its impact cannot be overstated.
The early 1920s were a pivotal time for wristwatches. While the wristwatch had gained popularity during the Great War, it was still a relatively new concept, and reliability was a significant challenge. Every watch required daily manual winding, which was a cumbersome process. The crown, a vital component, was a liability as it exposed the movement to dust and moisture, leading to wear and tear over time. Fortis founder Walter Vogt and other watchmakers recognized this vulnerability, and it was John Harwood who proposed a radical solution.
Harwood's genius lay in his ability to question the conventional wisdom of the industry. While others accepted the crown as an essential and unchangeable part of the watch, Harwood envisioned a different approach. He asked, "What if the watch didn't need a crown for winding?" After years of experimentation, he developed a self-winding system using an oscillating weight that transferred energy to the mainspring through a bumper system. This innovative design, patented in 1924, was a game-changer.
However, turning this patent into a practical, reliable product required a significant amount of expertise and industrial execution. Fortis, with its manufacturing infrastructure and engineering capabilities, became the perfect partner for Harwood. Together, they tackled the technical challenges of creating an automatic mechanical wristwatch. The entire construction had to be rethought, ensuring the oscillating system could withstand the stresses of everyday use. The caliber had to be protected, and reliability had to be engineered into every component.
On July 13, 1926, the first Fortis Harwood automatic wristwatches rolled off the assembly line in Grenchen, Switzerland. These watches were groundbreaking, featuring no crown and a design that set them apart from their contemporaries. The wearer would set the time via the rotating bezel, and the movement would power itself through the natural motion of the wrist. This was a bold move, removing a component that was considered essential by the industry.
The partnership between Fortis and Harwood resulted in the production of around 30,000 automatic watches. While this number might seem modest today, it was significant in the context of the time. The automatic winding system evolved rapidly, with full rotors replacing the bumper system, improving efficiency and power reserves. Movements became thinner, more refined, and more precise, but the core principle remained the same: harnessing the energy from the wearer's motion.
The story of the automatic wristwatch's invention is often overshadowed by the rise of Rolex's Perpetual rotor system in the post-war era. However, Rolex publicly acknowledged Harwood's invention in 1956, correcting any misconceptions created by their earlier advertising. This acknowledgment is a testament to the importance of recognizing the pioneers of watchmaking.
Today, Fortis continues to build watches in the same Grenchen location, honoring its rich history. The company's philosophy remains true to Vogt's vision of creating robust mechanical watches for real-world performance. The centenary of the automatic wristwatch's invention is a moment to celebrate not just as a brand anniversary but as a significant milestone in watchmaking history.
The automatic movement has transformed the relationship between the wearer and the watch. It has made the daily ritual of winding a choice rather than a necessity. This innovation has allowed mechanical watches to breathe, move, and require attention, fostering a tactile connection with the mechanical heart of the movement. The automatic movement has made mechanical watches more practical and accessible to a wider audience.
In conclusion, the invention of the automatic wristwatch by John Harwood and Fortis is a testament to human ingenuity and the power of innovation. It has shaped the industry and continues to influence modern watchmaking. As we appreciate the beauty of mechanical watches, let's not forget the pioneers who made it all possible.
